A study on the evolution of Japanese fashion 2

Section 2 - Traditional dresses in Japan

Fashion in Japan has evolved over the years. Clothing used in Japan today is very much similar to that in other parts of the world. This section studies the dresses that have traditionally been used in Japan.

Japanese traditional dresses include kimonos, hakama, yukata and jūnihitoe.

Kimonos

The kimono, meaning 'clothing' in Japanese, is the national dress of Japan. It is perhaps the most well-known symbol of Japan.

A kimono refers to a robe that is T-shaped, free flowing, and has a straight line to it. Both men and women wear kimonos. Typically, it is full-sleeved and reaches up to the ankles. A kimono is generally wrapped around the body of the wearer, from left to right. It is secured with a wide sash, commonly known as 'obi'. The sash is tied at the back.

There are different types of kimonos, worn by different classes of people and on different occasions. Kimonos are available in different kinds of materials as well. Kimonos range from highly formal to casual. The extent of formality of a kimono is determined by its fabric, pattern, and colour, as well as the number of crests in it. Having about five crests (known as 'Kamon' in Japanese) on one's kimonos signifies the highest level of formality. A kimono made of silk similarly signifies a high degree of formality, whereas those of cotton and polyester signify casualness.

Kimonos for men are commonly available in the basic shape only, in muted colours. Conversely, women's kimonos are available in a variety of styles, patterns and colours. Men's kimonos are usually found in a single, standard size, while women's kimonos can be found in varied sizes.

Traditionally, kimonos for unmarried girls are more elaborately patterned and have flowing sleeves, sometimes floor-length. This is an indicator of their single status. These kimonos have bold colours, and the sash or 'obi' is also of a bright colour. This type of kimono is called 'Furisode'. The word 'Furisode' means 'swinging sleeves' in Japanese.

Kimonos which have simple patterns on them, typically a geometrical pattern or a dotted one, usually made of cotton and similar fabrics, are called 'Edo Kamon'. Such kimonos are considered to be more casual. When small patterns are repeatedly used on the kimono, it is referred to as 'Komon'.

The kind of kimono worn by performing artistes (geisha) in Japan is known as 'Susohiki' or 'Hikizuri'. It is longer and more free-flowing as compared to an ordinary kimono, and trails on the floor.

In Japanese weddings, the bride usually wears a heavily embroidered white kimono that is quite heavy. This type of kimono is known as 'Shiromuku' and is usually worn with an elaborate hair accessory. The groom wears a black-coloured kimono made of Habutae silk, along with a pleated skirt known as 'Hakama' and a black coat known as 'Haori'. The groom carries the crest of the family to his wedding, as a tradition.

While attending funerals, both Japanese men and women wear simple, black kimonos. In case of a wedding, the black kimono worn by men is accessorized by a white-coloured tie, while a black-coloured tie is preferred in case of funerals.