A study on the evolution of Japanese fashion 4

It is believed that the samurai wore hakama in order to conceal their steps from their enemies. However, hakamas later began to be used to protect the kimono from dust and wear and tear.

Men's hakamas used on formal occasions are generally made of silk fabric that is stiff. It is commonly striped, either in black and white or black and navy blue. Unstriped hakamas or those with stripes in other colours are preferred on less formal occasions. A hakama can be worn with any kind of kimono, except with the yukata. In case of hakamas meant for females, stripes are rarely found. They are usually found in single colours or specially dyed in different tones of the same colour. A few flowers might also be embroidered on women's hakamas.

Another point of difference between hakamas worn by men and women is the style of tying them. Men usually tie the hakama at the waist, while women tie them at the bust line.

Yukata

A yukata is another traditional Japanese garment, which can be considered as a more casual version of the kimono. The term 'Yukata' means 'bathing clothes', though the garment is worn on other occasions as well. Apart from using yukatas after a bath, the Japanese people are commonly found to wear them on occasions such as firework displays and at other celebrations. Sumo wrestlers wear yukata when they go out in public. Traditional Japanese inns offer yukata to their guests to wear, so that they can feel comfortable.

The yukata is a comfortable, cooling garment, and is usually made of light cotton fabric. It is widely preferred for use during hot and humid weather. On account of the comfort that it affords to the wearer, it is also popularly referred to as the 'happy coat'. The style of the yukata is very much similar to that of the kimono with a straight cut and wide sleeves. However, it is unlined.

Commonly, the colour and the pattern of the yukata varies from wearer to wearer. Young women prefer wearing yukata with floral patterns on them, while children wear yukata with a number of bold colours. On the other hand, an older person would prefer yukata with simple geographical patterns and more sober colours.

The process of wearing a yukata is comparatively simple. The left side of the garment is wrapped over the right, and it is secured with an obi. However, when a dead body is dressed in a yukata for a funeral, this procedure is reversed. In this situation, the right side of the yukata is wrapped over the left. The yukata that is commonly used at home after a bath usually have a belt attached to them, and wearing them is even simpler.

The obi used for tying yukata is similar to that used in case of a kimono. Some people prefer to tie the obi in a decorative fashion such as with a large bow. Sometimes, the obi in case of yukata might be decorated with tassels.

Jūnihitoe

The jūnihitoe isa more complex version of the kimono. In fact, theword 'jūnihitoe' itself means a '12-layer robe' in Japanese. The innermost layer of the garment is made of white silk or cotton, over which several other layers are put on. The final layer is a coat. Considered in toto, the jūnihitoe is quite a heavy garment, and might weigh upto 20 kg.